It is very common for the HDMI port on the Series S to suffer from bent pins or be pushed in if the console is moved frequently between rooms. However, if the port looks physically perfect, the issue might be the internal HDMI encoder chip or a failing retimer component. I use a digital microscope to inspect the port and can replace either the physical socket or the motherboard chips to restore your video signal.

The Series S uses a specialised internal NVMe SSD that is paired to the motherboard, I cannot simply swap it for a larger internal drive. The best way to increase your storage is through the official expansion cards or external USB drives for older games. I can, however, replace the internal SSD if yours has failed and the console is stuck on a boot loop or a “System Error” screen.

Since the Series S has no disc drive, any mechanical noise is almost certainly coming from the cooling fan. If dust builds up or the fan bearings begin to fail, the console can become noisy or overheat and shut down. I can perform a full internal service to deep-clean the system and replace the fan if it is no longer spinning correctly.

Yes, because the Series S is much smaller, its cooling system has to work harder to move air through a tighter space. Dust can quickly block the internal vents, leading to thermal throttling where your games might start to stutter or lag. I recommend a professional clean and a change of thermal paste every 12 to 18 months to keep it running at peak performance.

Yes, this is usually caused by a fault in the internal Wi-Fi and Bluetooth module. If your controllers keep disconnecting or your internet signal is very weak even when you are close to the router, I can replace the communication module on the motherboard to get you back online and gaming wirelessly again.